Together with her sister-in-law Vera Kiria, Jakonia hosts cooking classes from their guesthouse (6 Soliko Virsaladze St) in Tbilisi"s hilly Mtatsminda district. "Pkhali is all about vegetables. We do things with every vegetable imaginable," Jakonia said, while tossing beetroot greens into bubbling pans of water, as Kiria showed me how to pulverise hazelnuts using a hand-cranked meat grinder, as part of my private class.